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2019 USA/Canada Tour – here we go!

Melanie de Wet6 Comments

The day has finally arrived – Trinity and I are heading to Miami, Florida. She’s flying with Virgin and I’m flying with British Airways. Thanks Angie for sorting out my ticket and Moto Freight for taking care of Trinity!

It’s been a stormy start to the trip – literally! I’m currently on the runway in the Bahamas. Miami airport is closed due to a storm so they had to divert the plane. I REALLY want to get off the plane and see the island. The sun is shining and I can see the trees but it’s just outside of my reach. It’s torture, torture I tell you! 😂

The last few days have been a little nuts but as I sit here on the plane I know it has been so worth it!

With the best will in the world, sometimes things just don’t go to plan. That was definitely the case this week!

I have had the basics of my tour finalised since Christmas but the devil really is always in the detail.

The one thing that I knew would be tricky was the motorcycle insurance. The arrival of GDPR resulted in the disappearance of most motorcycle insurance options for foreign motorcycles from Europe in the USA.

The shipping company for Trinity, Moto Freight, provided me with the best two options. The first was Motorcycle Express, a US company, and the second Securo Gringo, a Mexican company (although the underwriter is in the USA). I was warned that the policy wording on the latter was a little dodgy and also that they only offered third party insurance, so I was keen to use Motorcycle Express. There was only one problem – they don’t currently cover Canada.

I was checking the website weekly to see if there was any update – it just said, ‘we are working on it please check website for details’. Finally, I dropped them a line and they told me it would be sorted out by Thursday. Thursday came and there was no change. ‘It may be Friday’, they said. I couldn’t wait any longer.

On Thursday night, following my ‘bon voyage’ drinks with my colleagues, I went back to the office to buy insurance through Securo Gringo. Phew, I thought! Now I just had work things to tie up on the Friday. I was already unsure how I was going to finalise everything on Friday and then I got the news.

I had been speaking to my friend, Joa, about my insurance concern and she said she’d ask her cousin, Jaco, to check the details as he works in insurance. Jaco checked the wording of the policy and pointed out that I wouldn’t be covered as it was only valid for Mexican residents and for 28 consecutive days. 😱 Apparently the Gringo’s are not so secure after all!

This was a potential disaster – no insurance equals no trip! I can’t clear Trinity through customs without insurance. Even if they allowed me to with the policy, I was likely not to be covered in the event that I actually needed it. Neither option was acceptable.

Friday was a right off. Instead of tying up all my work things I was desperately trying to selvage my trip (or at least the start of it)!

To cut a long story short, I got there in the end but it was stress I could do without. Thank you Joa and Jaco for saving the day!

Unfortunately, the events of the day then had a huge knock on effect. I had dinner plans with my friends that night that I did not want to miss but I was now horribly behind schedule and would need to work on the weekend.

I went into work in the morning and in my tired (and slightly hungover state), miscalculated what time I needed to leave the office for my flight to Glasgow for Grant and Christina’s wedding reception.

I was so chuffed with myself thinking everything was going to plan until I reached Victoria station to catch the Gatwick Express and as I looked at the time on the departure board I had the sickening realisation that I was going to miss my flight – I was an hour off schedule. My heart sank!

I had especially delayed my departure to Miami until Monday to join the celebrations and I was going to miss it! I sat on a bench trying to see if I could make another flight but it was just not feasible.

I was so gutted calling Grant to tell him I wasn’t going to make it. The only consolation was that I will be seeing them in Vancouver at the end of my trip – we will definitely celebrate then! This also meant that I could now get my work things tied up. That finally happened on the way to the airport this morning.

As I sit here on the runway in the Bahamas all I have to ‘worry’ about is the torture of sitting on the plane instead of being outside playing. I’ll take that problem! 😂

I cannot wait to see what the rest of the day has in store!

Poland to Slovenia

Melanie de Wet1 Comment

I flew to Wroclaw, Poland on Friday (13 July) to collect Trinity to start our three week Eastern Europe motorcycle tour. I had intended to leave on Saturday morning but I was too tired after a very heavy working week and I still had things to finish off so I ended up leaving at Sunday lunchtime. This put me a day behind schedule but I knew I could make that up on the road.

I had planned big rides for the first two days. I absolutely loved Slovenia the last time I visited it, so I was really keen to spend as much time there and in Croatia as possible. I wasn’t really expecting much from the ride down to Slovenia, mostly because motorway are not exciting, so I was very pleasantly surprised by the gorgeous ride it turned out to be. 

There were a few things that were very special about the ride. Firstly, the weather was amazing – glorious sunshine and a temperature of 28 degrees Celsius. Secondly, the roads were beautiful the whole way. To be fair, I did chose smaller more scenic roads between Wroclaw and Brno and I’m so glad I did. Finally, the roads were full of fellow, friendly motorcyclists. I was greeting (what felt like) riders every few minutes. It was awesome! I also got chatting to a couple on a Triumph Tiger at a petrol (gas) station. They were on their way back to Wroclaw after a week in Austria. They were really lovely and even advised on which hotdog to order (my food choices were limited at this stop). 

I was slightly blown away by the Czech Republic; maybe that’s because I didn’t have high expectations (my bad). Like Poland, their infrastructure is fantastic and the countryside absolutely beautiful! I’ve included a few photos of the ride below, although sadly none catch the lovely countryside. For photos on the places that I post about, please visit my Mel & Trinity Facebook page (for some reason the Instagram photos won’t embed in this post).

I arrived in Brno around 7pm. I decided to stay in a hotel which was 3.5km outside of town, thinking that Trinity would be safer with off-street parking. I was expecting to be tired so thought this was a good decision. Of course, when I arrived at the hotel (Hotel Santander) I was full of beans and wanted to see the town. I didn’t have any Czech Korana so the hotel booked me a taxi that would accept cards. They were so lovely (and the room was fantastic)!

Brno town centre is gorgeous and essential enclosed by a ring road. Given the limited scale it was easy to walk around the town centre in a couple of hours before settling down for dinner – rump steak in red wine sauce..YUM!

At breakfast I was amused when I heard a lot of British accents. I started chatting to one of the tables (they had the cutest puppy with them) and it turned out they were all together. A few of the guys also rode motorcycles and they were looking at the shirt I was wearing. It’s a motocross shirt with a big letter M on the front within a circle. I told them that it was a Moose Racing shirt but that I bought it because it made me feel like a ‘superhero’. I’d need to be one to pull off this trip! Let’s see if it works (so far so good). It made my day talking to them though. 

My first stop after Brno was Vienna, which is where I had lunch. Vienna is stunning! However, the jump in class also came with a jump in the price of everything. Poland and the Czech Republic are such good value in comparison. Nonetheless, I cannot fault the city in terms of its aesthetic appeal!

From Vienna I had a long ride to Bled. I was keen to get back into schedule following my late start in the weekend, so wanted to push through. About 2 hours from Bled my nose started bleeding and I had to stop. I call this irony! Anyway, a 30 min stop and a bottom of Gatorade (with salt put in for good measure) seemed to do the trick – no more nose bleeds!

I arrived at Lake Bled just before 8pm. The ride to Bled through Austria was fantastic (even on the motorway). I hit a bit of rain but nothing too serious. Fortunately, I bought some waterproof trousers (pants) in Poland – they worked a treat and were so easy to put on with my boots still on. The bonus about them is that they fold into the size of about a standard mug. This is fantastic in terms of space saving on the bike. 

Bled is stunning, as you will see from the photos. The only thing I didn’t like was that I felt like I was in a high tourist area. The service at the hotel was mediocre and the room, for what I paid, was below par. I really was not impressed that my ‘with balcony’ room had no balcony and that my shower was no shower at all – it was a hand shower in a bath. I ended up ‘showering’ on my knees in the bath. Anyone heading to Bled avoid Hotel Kompas. 

The lake itself though is beautiful! I thoroughly enjoyed walking around it in the morning and watching the people enjoy everything that the lake has to offer. It is definitely worth seeing.

Next up Croatia!

Wet and Wild Germany

Melanie de WetLeave a comment

It’s funny the things that you remember. Sometimes a moment captured in my mind is brought back by a smell, a visual reminder, the feeling of the heat radiating off Trinity or simply the temperature reading on her control panel. It’s not the beauty of the object or landscape that I remember most but how I felt in the moment. The feelings are branded in my memory.

The most wonderful part of every memory is that I’m transported back to that moment every time I experience one of these remainders. The excitement fills me as if I was experiencing it all over again. Those are the moments that make my travelling worth it. The moments that make me feel alive!

Today I was transported back to Utah.

I started my day in Lubeck, northern Germany. The old town is an UNESCO world heritage site with buildings dating back to the 1400s. It is very cute and quaint! I’ve included a few photos for you to enjoy (you may need to click on the photos and visit my Instagram page to view all the photos).

I spotted a chocolate store on my walk around which I decided to visit in the morning. I’m so glad I did. It is the most amazing chocolate store I have ever seen! I was like a kid in a candy store and all I could think about was how Mr G, aka the sweety monster and my ‘adopted’ big brother, would LOVE the store. I had no idea how I was going to fit it into my panniers but I knew I had to bring chocolates back for him. So I did, after having the house special marzipan and cream cake and a latte at 09:45. Yes, it was definitely overkill!

I was barely out of Lubeck and planning my day. 3.5 hours to Munster would mean that I could be there my 2pm and enjoy the day lazing around. That was the plan until route 1 came to a standstill. As far as I could see there was a queue of cars, three lanes across. One of the drivers eventuality jumped out of his car and said that the queue was 3km long and that the road had been closed off due to an accident.

We stood around chatting for a bit but when the traffic in the fast lane started to move I jumped onto Trinity and joined the moving cars. It didn’t take long before they stopped but I decided to drive through the standing traffic. I don’t often do this with my panniers on but I wasn’t keen on sitting in traffic any longer than I needed to.

The queue was easily 2-3km long. People were getting out of their cars and I was even waved by a family clearly trying to keep their toddler entertained. I was soon joined by a fellow rider who I let pass to pave the way. We stopped when we appeared to be getting to the front of the queue. I had no desire to see what had happened as the thought of someone hurt was upsetting enough.

My fellow rider was Swiss and was riding a Ducati Multistrada 1200; a gorgeous bike! He had been touring Germany with some friends and was on his way to Hanover for a Guns ‘n Roses concert and then heading back to Switzerland. How brilliant! I didn’t know Guns ‘n Roses still performed. I was slightly jealous!

We didn’t have to wait long before the traffic started moving. The accident involved two trucks, which explains the road closure, but fortunately it didn’t look too bad so hopefully no serious injuries were sustained.

With that I was off and only about 30-45 minutes off schedule. No harm done and I was ambling along nicely for 30 minutes or so and then I saw the clouds. There was a storm on its way and I was heading straight for it.

As it had been pretty warm and clear I was riding in jeans so had no weather protection. I knew I needed to stop. My stop couldn’t have been better timed. I had just enough time to pull off the road (not something I like to do on a motorway) and pull my waterproof riding pants on when the hail started. That I hadn’t expected!

I had stopped next to some trees along the road but the hail was battering through the gaps so I moved Trinity forward a few meters where I had maximum cover. The hail was blowing in strongly from the shoulder (the north I think) so I faced the road to avoid any damage to my visor. That was the last thing I needed. The strategy worked but resulted in my neck getting drenched. This was going to be a fun ride!

Fortunately the hail only lasted a few minutes. I had no idea how long the storm would last so I hit the road. The heavy rain and wind continued for about an hour; long enough for me to get thoroughly drenched. Strangely the storm didn’t bother me a bit. I think the storm I experienced in the USA had prepared me for anything. I had never been so scared in my life but I got through it so I would get through this. The storm was in Utah.

All I had to do was follow route 1 to Munster so even I couldn’t get lost. Around Bremer the sun started shining and it kept getting hotter and hotter, peaking at 37 degrees. I stopped to have a break and use the opportunity to dry off. Trinity played her part perfectly and makes a very pretty drying horse (see for yourself below).

Every move on the temperature gauge reminded me of a different place. When the gauge hit 32 degrees I was in Vancouver. I so vividly remember the shock of Canada actually getting hot that the temperature on my approach to it is firmly set in my memory.

When the gauge hit 36 degrees I was in Utah. At first I was in Canyonlands and Arches National Parks with their beautiful red rocks but as the temperature rose I was in Capitol Reef National Park. I remember the incredible heat and the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere when I saw a lonely cyclist along the road. I was completely humbled by and in awe of that cyclist!

I reached Munster around 15:00. I stopped at what I thought was a corner cafe but turned out to be post office. No water here! Now drenched with sweat I took a seat in the shade next to the store to find a place to sleep. It didn’t take long before I was chatting to a lady that had popped into the post office. She was so sweet! She thought I was very brave being on a motorcycle and it got us talking about travelling. Turn out she’s heading to Vancouver in six weeks time for four weeks. I gave her some tips of where to go and got quite excited when I thought of the places that I visited while I was in British Columbia. She’s in for such a treat!

On the lady’s advice I booked into a youth hostel near the city. I generally avoid hostels as I like my own space but thought it was worth a try. It’s certainly a lot cheaper than the hotels in this area. My attempt to be sensible with my money then made me giggle. Two nights ago I booked into a ‘BnB’ on Bookings.com that was on the beach and had on-site restaurant facilities. After a day of riding that’s all I wanted. I reached the BnB only to discover that it was a high school which let out its dormitory for extra cash. At first I was shocked but then I couldn’t stop laughing. This was an evening I was not going to forget. I look forward to remembering it with great fondness.

Lucky 21 – Norway

Melanie de Wet3 Comments

There is only one word that can describe Norway, western Norway anyway, and that is exquisite (just bring a raincoat)!

When I entered Norway a week ago I only had an idea of what to expect; who hasn’t seen the photos of the fjords.

The ride up north from Kristiansand to Stalheim was full of surprises. It started out warm and with rolling green hills, becoming more dramatic the more north I rode. The mountains on the approach to Folgefonna National Park along route 134 were covered in snow and the temperature dropped to a chilly 8 degrees. Once over the summit temperatures rose again and I was riding along mountain passes.

There were three things that stood out for along my ride. The first thing was the number of waterfalls; they are everywhere! The second was the bus stops. I love the bus stops! They look like little hobbit houses with their grass roofs. So cute! They are the best in the southern part of Norway though. Finally, the tunnels. The tunnels are amazing! Some are miles long, others climb through the mountains. I rode through one which had two roundabouts / intersections within it. I’ve never seen that before.

I stayed at the Stalheim Hotel on Tuesday night. The view from there is fantastic and the ride from the hotel to Gudvangen didn’t disappoint either. The steep hairpin bends from the hotel to the E16 was flanked by two dramatic waterfalls. It was quite breathtaking. Below are a few photos of the ride (hopefully you can scroll through the set).

I was heading to Gudvangen to catch the ferry to Flam. The 2 hour ferry ride follows the two fjords within a UNESCO world heritage area. It’s quite spectacular seeing the fjords from the water. The contrast between the wide expanse of water and the steep cliffs is impressive. Just avoid sitting at the back of a diesel driven vessel; the fumes can be a little overpowering.

Below are a few photos from the ferry ride.

I was intending to take the 2 hour Flam railway ride but sadly it was fully booked until the late afternoon and I had made plans to meet my friend Sally near Viksdalen about a 2.5 hour ride away. Flam is gorgeous and certainly worth a visit. Next time I will spend a night there and take the train ride.

The ride to Viksdalen took longer than planned because I kept stopping to enjoy the view and take photos. It’s really hard not to! You’ll see why below.

It was great to spend an evening with Sal. As always we chatted and laughed until we fell into bed. We headed in opposite directions the next morning. Sal was ending her trip in Norway and mine was just beginning. Sal had given me a load of tips about where to go and I’m so glad I took her advice. The next two days were undoubtedly the highlight of my trip.

The view about half a mile from the Lote ferry terminal made me stop in my tracks. It was spectacular! I pulled off the side of the road just before the start of the tunnel and had lunch perched on the concrete barrier. It wasn’t the most romantic stop but the view was worth it! Sadly the picture does it no justice but here it is below, along with a video clip of the view.

Briksdalsbre and the area of Olden could come straight out of a fairytale. I felt truly blessed to be there and was so happy that there was a cabin available in the heart of the valley. I spent the night next to a stream surrounded by waterfalls, with the Briksdal glacier only a 40 minute walk away. I had walked up to the glacier when I arrived and was fortunate to see part of the glacier break off and come crashing down like a waterfall of ice. The noise from the glacier was incredible; like thunder during a storm. Below are a photos from the area. This area I would revisit in a heartbeat!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVXsaQGBs4j/https://www.instagram.com/p/BVdCN4ahz0C/

Next on my highlight list was the views around Geirangerfjord from the town of Geiranger. It is fair to say that it doesn’t matter which side you approach this town the view will blow you away. A definite must do if you’re planning a road trip to Norway. This was the view from the northern approach. The southern approach is even more spectacular.

The most north I travelled was to Tollstiegen; a view I was told not to miss. Sadly the weather did not play along and the valley was covered in fog. Nonetheless the ride down was spectacular. I could not see the waterfall from the top, although I could hear it, but I did see it on my way down the valley. The first photo below shows what I should have seen versus what I was able to see on the day. I will definitely return to see this view one day.

Sadly from here on the weather never improved. It pretty much rained solidly the next two days so I didn’t stop much. The two other things I would have loved to do were the skylift at Loen and to spend a night in Skei.

The weather was similar in Bergen. It stoped raining for about an hour, long enough for me to video call my dad for Fathers Day and show him around Bergen as I walked around. Then the rain started again so after lunch I spent the afternoon and evening in my hotel room watching TV and chilling out. After looking at the weather forecast I decided that I was going to head east towards Oslo. I was going to chase the sun and also see if I could avoid the ferry crossing back to Denmark. The idea of spending another 3 hours throwing up on a ferry appeals to me less than driving through Sweden.

I am currently sat in a cafe having lunch about 30 miles from Norway/Sweden border. The sun is shining and I’ve been reminiscing about the now 21 countries that I have travelled through by motorcycle. Without a doubt the USA and Canada still top my list but the Western Cape (South Africa), the Highlands of Scotland, the Swiss Alps and now Norway are on my ‘have to visit’ list.

On that note, it’s time to hit the road again! This time with the sun on my back…woohoo!! 🙂

 

Hello Norway

Melanie de Wet3 Comments

A week ago I was stopped in Ashford, too tired to make it to Folkestone. I didn’t fare much better the next day making it to just outside Amsterdam.

By Sunday I was gaining my strength back and making better progress. I missed the turnoff I should have taken to the west of Hamburg and ended up east of Hamburg in a little town called Malente; a peaceful little town set around a tranquil lake. It was lovely!

I had booked the ferry from Hirtshalls, Denmark to Kristiansand, Norway for 18:00 the next day, so I wasn’t going to see much of Denmark outside of the motorway. The ride was wet and the wind was howling! I strangely love the challenge but I was glad it wasn’t one of my sightseeing days. Below are a couple of photos taken at the port in Hirtshalls.

I hadn’t given much thought to the crossing itself as my thoughts were on arriving into Kristiansand at 20:30 and then having to find somewhere to sleep for the night.

I had a French style hotdog on the ferry before we left the port, thinking that it would save me having to find dinner when I arrived in Norway.

Of course, strong winds equals rough seas. That hotdog came back to haunt me over the now 3 hour ferry crossing due to rough waters. I was so sick and so sorry I ate that bloody hotdog.

When I arrived in Kristiansand all I wanted was a bed and a shower. I headed into the town but after 10 minutes decided I wasn’t leaving Trinity on the street, so I started heading north on route 9 towards Bergen. I had seen cabins advertised on-line in Evje so I was hoping to book into one of those. Worst case scenario I had my tent and would find a spot to sleep or just ride through the night – it’s only dark for about 3 hours after all.

I arrived at Evje at 22:20. There was nobody at the reception of the campsite but there was a sign saying (in essence) grab a set of keys, put your money in an envelope (£350 Norwegian Knone), pop it through the mailbox and enjoy your stay. Awesome! The last time I’d seen this was in Canada.

The little cabin was great value for roughly £30/$35. It had a bunk bed, a little kitchen (including a fridge, stove, kettle, coffee machine and all the cookery and crockery that you need) and a kitchen table with waterside view. Perfect! Below was my view.

Tuesday’s mission was to get to Stalheim and I rocked it, completely inspired by the incredible scenery around me. It was also an amazing 18 degrees Celsius when I left Evje, which I was not expecting, so that made me very happy. The warm weather was short lived though as the temperature dropped to as low as 8 degrees riding over the snow covered mountain passes. The change in topography was great though and also brought back great memories of my ride through the Alps last summer.

No day of mine would however be complete without at least one wrong turn. This one led me to the most incredible waterfall I had even seen on the side of a road. Due to the spray I took this video in my full bike gear (helmet included).

Once back on the right road, and two toll payments later, I made good progress and arrived at the Stalheim Hotel around 17:00. Yippee, I could have a beer and enjoy a stunning view and what a view it was.

I was starting to get a feel for the next few days to come. Hello Norway!

Barcelona to Portugal

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I left the Pyrenees mountains headed for Barcelona with the intention to ride south along the west coast before cutting across to Portugal. Two things changed my mind, namely the weather and the realisation that I wasn’t enjoying the hustle and bustle of the conurbations. I wanted to be back in the mountains.

I spent the night in Barcelona with the family that I met in Ordesa National Park – what a lovely evening! Josephine called a friend to get some advice about the best route for me to take to Porto. I was really chuffed that I made it to Mallos de Riglos (see photo below) before the rain kicked in. The rock faces up close were absolutely stunning!

My route from there took me via Pamplona, Logrona, Soria to Valladolid, where I spent Thursday night. Parts of the journey were fantastic and parts were on the motorway so nothing exciting. I was quite sad to have arrived in Valladolid so late because it looked like a fantastic city.

As I mentioned to my mom on Skype this morning, I’ve really liked the cities in Spain but I’ve found the smaller towns lack character or maybe they just look like they need a little love and attention. What is however fascinating are all the small hilltop towns or buildings dotted around the countryside. Some of them are abandoned but they did attract my attention.

My fondness for the Spanish cities is the opposite of what I found in the USA where I generally didn’t like the larger cities but loved the smaller cities and towns. It’s been an interesting observation.

Friday was a long day of riding. I started at 09:30 and finally stopped for the night at Casa do Outeiro at around 18:00. I had intended to stay in the Douro Valley but when I saw some fires I thought I’d keep going.

The Douro Valley is unbelievable! Unfortunately my photos don’t do it justice so please do yourself the favour and Google photos of the Valley. I saw an article on-line stating that the N-222 had been voted the best road in the world so this was where I was heading. The road was beautiful but it would not nearly make it to my No. 1. The road leading up to Pinhao however blew my mind. I was so overwhelmed that I needed to stop in Pinhao to catch my breath. Below are a few photos of the area.

Entering Portugal marked my 19th country by motorcycle, 18 of which have been on Trinity. I never imaged a year ago that I would be in this position. Sometimes I have to pinch myself. It’s been one hell of a year! Below marked my entity into Portugal.

Overall I have loved Portugal – the vibrant terracotta tiles, granite cobble streets, the amazing scenery, great roads and warm, wonderful people. It has been such a treat! Of particular note are the Sousa Guedes family who run the B&B where I stayed last night, Casa do Outeiro in Marco de Canaveses. More hospitable and lovelier people you cannot find. If you ever find yourself in this part of the world make sure you pay them a visit.

Tonight is sadly my last evening in Portugal. I’m staying in a town called Vila Nora de Cerveira which is just shy of the Spanish border. What a cute little vibrant town. Below are a few photos I took earlier. The last photo was a painting on the side of a municipal building. At about 4m high it is seriously impressive!

I may be leaving Portugal in the morning but it will be in my heart forever!

Broto to Barcelona

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What an incredible last two days! I have moved between playful excitement and overwhelming owe – it has rendered me speechless most of the day.

Following my 18km hike on Sunday I returned to Broto. The 700m decent over the last 2km left my legs feeling like jelly, so I didn’t want to travel far. I was glad that I returned there – it’s such a cute village. I was also amazed that I could get a three course meal including a glass of wine for €15. Result!

From Broto I took the N-260 via Ainsa to Escalona. From there things really got interesting! West of Escalona there’s a 25km anti-clockwise route which is so much fun on the bike. The first 5km along the HU-631 is a narrow, winding road through an impressive gorge. It was stunning! I stopped along the way to have a little ‘Green & Blacks chocolate break’ and to take this video (see below).

At the end of the gorge there’s a small car park where you can leave your car (or bike) and head off on a hike. I decided to keep my hike short but what a pleasure it was. The first thing I passed was a little chapel built into the mountain. It made me smile as it reminded me of the Mesa Verde National Park – most certainly one of my favourite places I visited on my US trip last year. Below is a photo of the chapel.

My second stop was for a little nap next to the river. The water was cool, crisp and inviting, running in the deep canyon. It was so beautiful and peaceful I could have stayed there all day.

The 20km ride back to Escalona was a blast on the bike. The narrow, widening road through the gorge had opened up to a narrow, winding road along the mountain. It was a great opportunity to play on Trinity. It was exhilarating!

Below was my view as I approached Escalona.

From Escalona I was back on the N-260 heading east to Andorra. The scenery changed from alpine mountains to deep red rock faces, which reminded me of Zion National Park, to tree lined passes boasting autumn green, yellow and red leaves. For most of the ride I wished time would stand still.

At La Seu d’ Urgell I left the N-260 to head north to Andorra. What a stunning little country! I didn’t have much time so I only went as far as Andorra la Vella but my heart was pounding from excitement the whole way. Although I later noticed the other shops my eyes were drawn to the numerous car, bike, motorcycle and ski stores that lined the roads. I felt like a kid in a candy store. This is definitely a place to come and ‘play’, particularly as petrol is under a € per litre (sadly I had filled Trinity up in Spain)!

From Andorra I was back on the N-260, now heading for Barcelona via Berga. From Berga to Barcelona I travelled on the motorway, so nothing exciting to report. However, below are a couple of photos that I took along my ride on the N-260. The final photo was taken on the C16 just north of Baga. Sadly the opportunities to stop a few and far between but I hope it gives you a feel for the scenery. Enjoy!

Hello Spain!

Melanie de WetLeave a comment

I left work on Wednesday afternoon with a full tank of petrol and a broad plan – to take in as much of Spain, Andorra and Portugal as I could in 16 days.

I had planned to do this trip in September but when I was approached about a new job everything was put on hold. I ended up accepting the job but my current employer has been amazing and has allowed me to make my trip as long as I was available to answer questions if they arise. How wonderful is that!

With only a few days notice I was packed and ready to hit the road. It was pretty cold in France and I was still getting over a pesky cold, so I decided to head south and get into some sunshine. After a two day ride I was in San Sebastián, Spain.

San Sebastián is stunning! I stayed in the old town which is full of character and only a stone’s throw from the beach. It felt so good feeling the sand beneath me feet. I walked along the beach and then around the city before stopping for dinner on the beachfront. A romantic meal for one. Why not!

Below are a couple of the buildings in San Sebastián. There are more photos, as usual, on my Mel & Trinity Facebook page.

The initial plan was to head west from San Sebastián in order to reach Andorra asap. That was until I saw some photos of Ordesa National Park – the mountains seduced me!

After a few wrong turns I made it to the gorgeous little mountain town of Broto. Like San Sebastián I instantly knew I liked it. I had booked into a hotel on the Ara river, so after checking in and dropping off my things, I went exploring. I even managed a little chill time.

Below are a couple of photos of Broto.

Today has however been the highlight of my trip. Before breakfast I took a walk to the Cascade De Sorrosal (Sorrosal Waterfalls) – a 5 minute from my hotel. The geology blew me away – I have never seen such pronounced folds in rocks. It is simply stunning. Below are photos of the two Waterfalls.

From there the day only got better. The lovely lady at the tourist office spent 30 minutes explaining the area to me and my various options in her broken English. She kept apologising for not knowing the English terms but I was holding onto every word. She was so enthusiastic about the area and it was contagious. I wanted to see it all!

I could dedicate an entire post to Ordesa National Park as it is exquisite but I’ll post some more photos on Facebook.

The numerous waterfalls along the Ordesa Valley are a visual feast, aided by the steep glacier valley walls which tower over the valley.

I would not have thought the day could get any better but then I met a fellow South African and her family on the hike. I ended up walking the majority of the 18 km hike Josephine and her fantastic family (husband John and sons Luke and Danny). They were absolutely delightful!

My day was perfect and a great reminder of why I love travelling so much. There is so much beauty in the world and I’m so happy to have found so much of it!

A Bit of Scottish Heaven

Melanie de Wet3 Comments

This weekend was wonderful on so many levels. Not only did I get to enjoy the glorious beauty that is the Scottish Highlands but I was again reminded of the wonderful people that I have in my life and was transported back to amazing places I had the privilege to visit during my USA/Canada trip this time last year.

The Highlands of Scotland are stunning, even with the pesky midges and lack of sunshine. In some ways the dark skies add to the mystery of the dramatic landscape. I also can’t remember the last time I had so much fun on a bike! The isolation and narrow, winding single track roads allowed me the freedom to really ‘play’ on Trinity, testing both her and my capabilities. I think her strengths far outweigh mine but I’m trying to catch up!

As with my Europe trip, my planning for the trip was pretty minimal. I had highlighted some potential routes on a map but did no further planning, outside of borrowing a warmer sleeping bag as I was nervous I may get cold if I ended up having to camp. This turned out to be a great decision since I had to camp the first two nights. There was no availability accommodation.

My lack of planning was partly due to a very heavy work schedule for the two weeks leading up to my trip and partly due to the fact that I have come to enjoy just seeing where the road takes me. The approach has done me well so far.

I flew up to Glasgow on Thursday evening to be greeted by my extended ‘Scottish family’. On my previous trip Silvia had taken care of me but on this trip it was Mary that made sure I was well fed at the start and end of my trip. There is nothing that pleases me more than someone cooking for me, so this brought me enormous joy! On this trip it also added to the amusement.

I had popped around Mary’s for breakfast before hitting the road on Friday. Mary was making me a flask of tea to take along on my trip while I was Skyping my mom. My initial shock was followed by a roar of laughter when I stopped to have my tea next to Loch Lomond only to get a mouthful of milky water. Mary had forgotten to put the teabag in. She made up for it in abundance on Tuesday though when she had dinner and a cup of tea ready for me upon my return to Glasgow. We had a good giggle over the incident as she had realised her omission not long after I had left her house.

Packing for the trip took 20 minutes. Getting over the Erskine bridge took twice as long as I missed the turn off and ended up riding in a huge circle only to end up back at Mary’s house. I had to laugh!

Once I managed to get myself on the right road it was smooth sailing. I spent most of the day riding north along the A82. It was raining when I passed Loch Lomond so I stopped for ‘tea’ just after that when the rain stopped. Well, you know how that ended. It was a short stop.

My next stop was Glencoe. The volcanic mountain pass is located next to Scotland’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. Sadly I couldn’t see it through the cloud that covered it. The ride through the rolling green valley was however quite lovely. At one point the look and feel of the road made me feel like I was on Independence Pass in Colorado again. A photo of the area is provided below.

After a stop in Fort William for lunch I was back on the road and heading for the Isle of Skye. I hadn’t ‘planned’ to visit Skye but my dad told me that he loved it so that changed my course. I’m glad it did.

Skye is gorgeous, as is the drive into it along the A87, which also passes Eilean Donan Castle. The castle looks so majestic in the middle of the lake. It was a stroke of luck that I ended up staying a stones throw away from it on the shore of Lake Alsh (Sound of Sleat) on my second night.

I had looked for accommodation on Skye during one of my stops but there was nothing available. It hadn’t been that long since I crossed the bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh into Skye when I saw a campsite in the most beautiful setting. There was also a pub 200m away. Scenery. Food. Result! I would look no further.

Below is a photo of my view of the mountains on my first night.

My second day was spent exploring Skye. I decided to not look at my map but just head west and see where it look me. When I saw something I liked, generally rugged coastline, I tried to find a road that would lead me closer to it. After a couple of dead ends I ended up at Neist Point. All I will say is WOW!

Below are photos of the coastline at Neist Point and the lighthouse.

Walking from the top of the ridge down to the lighthouse I was quite taken by the landscape and the lucky campers that had made the location their home for the night. It really was quite breathtaking in more than one way. Not only was I blown away by the scenery but I also realised how unfit I’ve become since my US trip. I had to drag myself up a couple of the hills, each time thinking that I wouldn’t make it but each time surprising myself and getting to the top. This seem to set the tone for the day.

On the way back from Neist Point I stopped at a little cafe for lunch and got talking to two resident Skye bikers. They pointed me to the eastern side of Skye where the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock can be found. I think there were a few other things but these were all I had time to visit as the Old Man of Storr required a hike up a mountain. It was bloody exhausting in my full bike gear but so worth the view when I got to the top.

I didn’t post that many pictures on Instagram but there are more photos on my Facebook page. I did however post a photo of the waterfall at Kilt Rock which is below.

It was around 4pm when I got back to Trinity and started my journey off Skye. The mobile/ cell reception on Skye is quite poor so I had to wait until I reached Kyle of Lochalsh to see where I may be able to stay. Again, there was nothing in the area. I decided to just keep riding until I found a campsite which is how I ended up back at Eilean Donan Castle and having the best Steak and Ale pie I have ever eaten. This was in the local pub.

Day three started in the rain. I was slightly worried about where I was going to sleep that night given that my tent was wet. As luck would have it, my days ride along the Wester Ross Coastal Trail would lead me to a Wigwam just off the beach at Blue Sands. It is this coastline up to the Rua Reidh lighthouse at Melvaig that for me is a little bit of Scottish heaven. I will definitely be going back to stay at the lighthouse which has been converted into a B&B.

The day’s ride leading up to my beach sunset was my favourite ride of the weekend. For the first time since returning from North America I found somewhere that I felt truly free. It was stunning, isolated, varied and challenging. I passed a snow covered Beinn Eighe surrounded by wide plains. I raced through narrow single track roads, only stopping to let the occasional car or camper van pass. I followed two cars over the single track pass to Applecross in the rain and fog with minimal visibility and I saw field of yellow and rusty/purple flowers that reminded me so much of Mt Rainier and parts of California.

I can’t remember the last time I was this happy!

Below are a few photos from the day.

My final day started with a walk on the beach. It was overcast but still. It was so peaceful.

I was mindful that I had a long trip back to Glasgow to get a flight home, so I decided to head off early. That plan changes slightly when I dropped Trinity just outside of my wigwam. Oops! What is it with me and dropping her in campsites.

Four good things came from that incident. I learned my panniers can handle Trinity’s weight; that I still can’t pick her up; I got to have breakfast and finally I got to meet two lovely guys that helped pick Trinity up for me.

The trip back to Glasgow was fortunately less eventful. I rode back via Inverness and Lock Ness, stopping at Fort Augustus for coffee and cake. Sadly I didn’t spot the Loch Ness Monster but I did get a photo of its friend (see below). From there I was back on the A82 passing Glencoe, still covered in cloud, and Loch Lomond before reaching Glasgow. What a great weekend! The Highlands I will be back.