I left Knysna on Wednesday morning at 7am. Breakfast started at 8am and I didn’t want to sit around wasting the morning, so I decided to hit the road and to have breakfast along the way. My plan was to have breakfast in Brenton-on-sea but a guy at the petrol filling station told me to rather have breakfast at Buffelsbaai.
The picture I had of this restaurant on the beach was sadly rather romantic, besides from the fact that it wasn’t open yet, so I sat looking over the sea for a while before moving onto Wilderness. Below was my view from the restaurant.
It was a lovely drive and view over the beach but not enough to keep my attention longer than about 10 minutes.
I arrived in Wilderness at around 8.30am and started my search for a restaurant where I could have breakfast on the beach. I didn’t want to go back to the place where I’d had coffee the day before, so I kept my eye out for some place different. I spotted a place but it turned out that it only opened at 11am. This was clearly not my morning for enjoying breakfast on the beach.
When I saw a guy walking towards me I asked him if there was somewhere in town to have breakfast. He recommended two places in town and during our conversation preceded to tell me that I had a ‘deurmekaar’ (confused) accent. This found this very amusing given that it was the second time on my trip someone had said that to me. Clearly my twelves years in London has left its mark on me (so to speak).
Following breakfast in Wilderness I headed north towards Oudtshoorn, taking the Outeniqua pass for the second time. Only this time I could actually see the road. Result!
Since I was doing pretty well in terms of time, I decided to go to the Cango caves, which is about a 20 minute drive north of Oudtshoorn. It came highly recommended by my aunty Carry.
The cave itself is spectacular, we’ll certainly at least the first two of the six chambers that you visit on the Heritage Tour. There are a further two chambers that you can access if you go in the adventure tour but I was certainly not dressed for that.
Below is a photo from chamber two. That’s 200,000 years of history in the making. It’s pretty amazing.
I know that you should never compare things but I couldn’t help myself on this occasion. Although the cave holds the most spectacular display of Stalagmites and Stalactites I have seen, I was rather disappointed at the paved floor. It felt completely out of place, and all I kept thinking of where the words I saw in all the American parks, namely ‘leave no trace’. I wish we had followed this advice in the caves.
From the Cango caves I moved on the Cango Wildlife Ranch. I have always wanted to play with one of cat family cubs and I got the opportunity at the ranch to stroke two cheetah cubs. They were so cute but clearly so hot that they didn’t seem to notice me stroking them. What a fantastic experience – one I won’t easily forget (see the photos below).
It was around 3pm when I left the ranch. The drive along the R62 was absolutely fantastic! I loved the change of topography from mountain passed to open fields of fynbos and then onto the district mountainous landscape of the Cape wine lands. I could feel the excitement growing inside me as I entered the wine lands.
The only things dampening my mood slightly was that I’d been riding into the sun for 2.5 hours and my eyes were burning terribly. So much so that I had to close my right eye for a while. I was therefore very happy when I reached Robertson and started heading south towards McGregor where I was booked in for the night.
I have never been to McGregor so I didn’t know what to expect. There is a fork in the road as you ride into town from the north and I took the left fork. I could feel my heart sinking a little when I drove along the rather run down little houses lining the streets. I was starting to wander where on earth I had booked to stay. After a quick look at my map I realised I should have taken the right fork so I turned right to get back into Voortrekker street. What a difference this made.
I was absolutely delighted when I arrived at the B&B and was greeted my Nicolaas, one of the owners. He was lovely. To be honest, everything about the guesthouse was perfect. It’s the first time that I would rate a place as 10/10 until it came to paying the next day. The guesthouse only took cash.
Maybe I’m jumping to conclusions but in my experience cash in hand businesses are generally evading tax. This left a very bad taste in my mouth.
On a lighter note though, I was very excited to be on my way back to Cape Town. I decided to head back to the N2 so that I could ride over Sir Lowry’s pass in the sunshine (it was raining the first time I crossed over it). The view from the pass over Somerset West is quite breathtaking!
When I reached the bottom of the pass I was 60km outside of Cape Town. I pulled off the road and called my mom to let her know to come and collect me at the bike garage which is in the city.
My mom’s timing was impeccable! I had just given the keys to the bike back and had stepped outside to see if there was a coffee shop where I could wait for her and there she was.
It was 2.20pm and I had one more thing I wanted to do. I wanted to abseil off Table Mountain. I called the company to find out if they were doing abseiling that afternoon and as it turned out their last slot was 3pm. Perfect, we could just make that if we rushed.
We got to the top of Table Mountain at 2.55pm – just in time for me to make the final abseil of the day. I was nervous and excited all at once. I’d waited two years to do this so I was so pleased to finally make it. It was the perfect way to end my trip!
So here is the view from just over 1,000m. It’s one hell of a ride!
I didn’t think it was possible but I’ve fallen a little more in love with the Cape after this trip. It was great to be home!