Montana and Wyoming

I have been back in London for nearly 2.5 months and conscious that I ever finished writing up my journey. Thought I’d rectify that. So here goes.

With Sturgis under my belt, I was ready for Devils Tower. I was already keen to see the rock formation but I also promised Jeannine and Scott, who I spent two nights with in Michigan, that I’d send them a photo of Devils Tower when I got there as they missed Devils Tower when they were in South Dakota. I fulfilled my promise while completing the 2.3 km walk around the tower.

About 50 million years ago molten magma was forced through sedimentary rock above it and cooled underground. As it cooled it contracted and fractured into columns. Over time the sedimentary rock eroded leaving Devils Tower exposed. Devils Tower is nature at its finest and I was so pleased to have seen it.

I had arranged to speak to Jenny around 5.30pm, so once I’d walked around the tower and enjoyed some time admiring it’s beauty, I rode back to the entrance to wait for Jenny’s call. While I was waiting for Jenny to call a guy came over to talk to me.

‘So you’re riding across the world’, he asked? ‘That’s the plan over the next ten years’, I said. This is how I met Dan ‘Tito’ Davis – a fugitive from the US authorities between 1994 and 2007 for drug dealing, before he was arrested and spend 14 years in prison. While in prison, Dan wrote a book about his life. He gave me a signed copy when we met.

Meet Dan ‘Tito’ Davis. Definitely the most colourful character that I met on my trip.

After my call with Jenny I rode to Gillette where I spent two nights. I was getting increasingly physically uncomfortable and thought a little time off the bike would be good. I stayed in the Home2 Suites by Hilton which cost about $115 (£92) a night and was actually one of my favourite hotels stays of this trip. It was excellent value!

Within the first hour of being at the hotel I met John, a real estate broker from Oregon, who was on a business trip. John and I hit it off immediately and we ended up having breakfast and dinner together for the two days that I was there. What a lovely guy.

Meet John.

On the 1st July I was back on the road heading to Billings. It was a wet ride and I nearly ran out of petrol/gas. Luckily I didn’t!

I was so uncomfortable at this stage that I didn’t leave the B&B that I was staying at and just ate the snacks that I had with me. Walking was starting to become quite painful.

The next morning I was up and ready to tackle Beartooth Highway (Highway 212), which runs from Red Rock into Yellowstone National Park from the east. I was expecting it to be cold so I layered up in anticipation.

At one of the viewing points I hooked up with two couples on Harley’s. They were from Florida and had picked up rental bikes that morning.

As I had started ascending the pass my petrol gauge dropped suddenly to a quarter tank and I was concerned about running out of gas (again). There was also no cell/mobile reception to check where the nearest gas station was.

‘You can ride with us and we’ll get you to the next gas station’, they said. Fantastic! That gave me the courage to push forward and not return to Red Rock to fill my tank.

Beartooth Pass was fantastic! The scale of the mountain range was impressive. The ride itself was pretty easy. The switchbacks (hairpin bends) were gentle, not like those in Europe which are sharp and require concentration.

Below is of photo of me at the top of Beartooth Pass.

I rode in the middle to the two Harley’s. They stopped often for sightseeing and photos but as the day went by it was getting increasingly painful to climb off and onto Trinity. When we got to Cooke City I had to stop. I was in too much pain to continue.

I had lunch in a little restaurant that had WiFi and found a room for the night, which was in the High Country Motel. It wasn’t great (it had a funny smell) but it had to do.

The next morning after breakfast I left for Mammoth Springs, which is in the north-western part of Yellowstone National Park. I was aiming for the walk-in clinic that I knew was there.

It was about a 1.5hr ride from Cooke City to Mammoth Springs. The ride did not disappoint. Outside of the fantastic scenery there were Bison everywhere. I stopped at a viewing point where I could see a crowd of people at the waters edge viewing the Bison on the far side of the river. It was fantastic to see so many Bison grazing in the wild.

I stopped at the viewing point for about 20-30 minutes before heading to Mammoth Springs. I couldn’t stop thinking about my cousin and his family who were with me there in July 2015 when I did my first USA/Canada bike trip.

After lunch I went to the doctor. From start to finish the visit took about 1.5 hours. I was slightly nervous about how much it was going to cost but it wasn’t too bad at $187 including my medicine. The doctor suspected that I had an allergic reaction to washing powder. She said it was the second worst case she had ever seen. I was put on an steroid to reduce the swelling, which I needed to take twice a day for 5 days.

I stayed in Chico Hot Springs that night, which was only an hour north of Mammoth Springs. I had a super sweet little cottage on top of a hill above the main hotel.

Unfortunately, I did not have a good night. Exhausted and in pain, I went to bed early and woke just after midnight with my body oozing a disgusting smelling blood stained discharge. The steroid and other meds had clearly kicked in and my body was expelling whatever it needed to. It smelled like my dying puppy, Hailey, when she was dying from salmonella poisoning. It was a smell I could not forget and it was frightening that it was coming from my body. Man, did I feel vulnerable!

I felt a lot better in the morning but made the decision to stay put somewhere for a couple of days to rest and recover and that place would be Bozeman, Montana. I stayed in Bozeman from 4-7 July. The first thing I did, of course, was go searching for a hypoallergenic laundry powder to wash my clothes in.

During my ‘downtime’ in Bozeman I took Trinity for a wash, I had my hair cut and coloured, I walked around the shops and had Trinity’s chain adjusted. Other than that I watched TV, wrote a blog and spend a lot of time with my loved ones on the phone.

By the time I left Bozeman the swelling in my body had massively reduced and it was far more comfortable to be back on Trinity.

I was really looking forward to enjoying my rides again. My journey on the 7th July would take me to Kalispell, which is on the western side of Glacier National Park. I was dying to ride the Going-to-the-Sun road in the park. I did the ride with my cousins in 2015 but the weather was not great and the fog prevented us from seeing the view. I was keeping my fingers crossed that it wouldn’t rain the next day. As luck would have it, it didn’t.

Glacier National Park is spectacular! Although there are not many glaciers left, most have receded, the scenery is breathtaking! The Going-to-the-Sun road was my favourite ride of my trip. It was everything that I had hoped it would be and then some. I stopped a number of times to take photos, walk to waterfalls and to take photos of the unusual flowers that covered the landscape. It was perfect! I could not have asked for a better day.

Below are photos of Glacier National Park.

Near Canada! 🤩

Yellowstone to Grand Teton National Parks (WY)

After three weeks of travelling with Grant and then my cousins, a new chapter in my adventure was about to begin, I was about to start travelling on my own.

On the positive side, I hadn’t given this any thought. This meant that it didn’t worry me and that I was enjoying each day as it comes. What more could I ask for.

On the negative side, it was difficult saying goodbye to my cousins. I had such a wonderful week with them that I didn’t want it to end. I’m so happy that I will see them again when I get down to Arizona. Jaco, Liza, Nico, Chris and Izaan – thank you so much for making last week one of the best weeks of my life. I will never forget it!

After leaving my cousins on Saturday (happy birthday again Izaan) I headed into Yellowstone National Park. My intention was to see the bits of the park I hadn’t but once I reached the park I was drawn back to the Grand Canyon. I’m so glad I followed my instincts. I spent about three hours exploring ever public accessible part of the Canyon and found two amazing waterfalls. The waterfall at the brink of the lower falls, which is on the north rim of the Canyon, is the second most beautiful thing so have ever seen. The photos below were taken at the falls, although sadly they do the falls an injustice. It is something you simply have to see in person.

From there I headed to Jackson’s Hole, via Grand Teton National Park. The town of Jackson is fantastic! A definitely must see if you are ever travelling around Wyoming.

Grand Teton is the 6th National Park that I have visited in the last 3 weeks and my 3rd in the U.S. What I find remarkable is just how different each park is. This park is certainly a great park to cycle in.

It will be difficult for me to do justice to Grand Teton NP as I wanted a relaxed day and therefore spent the majority of yesterday at Jenny Lake. The lake is beautiful, as you can see from the photo below, but I am sure it has much more to offer than the small part of it I explored.

I took the boat ferry to the other side of Jenny Lake as I wanted to see the Hidden Waterfall and then hike back to the car park.

The Hidden Waterfall was pretty but relatively small, thus another hike was required to fulfil my need for ‘the find of the day’. Each day needs at least one of those in my view.

I saw a board for Inspiration Point and decided that this would be where I was heading. The hike ended up being far more challenging than I had expected but it turned out to be well worth the effort. When I reached Inspiration Point I saw a black bear and her two cubs 20-30 metres below me. How wonderful to see them so nearby and in their natural environment. This was definitely my find for the day.

I had the pleasure of walking the 2.8 miles back to the car park with an English teacher from Michigan called Chris. He is on his own 4,000 mile adventure in a RV and we had a wonderful time talking about all sorts of things on our hike along Jenny Lake. Chris advised me to go and see Wizard Island when I get to Crater Lake. He said its one of the most amazing places he’s been to in the U.S. so I can’t wait to see it. I’ve always had a thing for volcanos.

Another lovely person that I met in Teton Village, where I was staying,
is a young woman called Shannon. She’s originally from upstate New York but she’s been travelling around the western U.S. over weekends while she’s looking for an internship. Shannon advised that I spend more time in Park City rather than Salt Lake City when I get there, so I’m curious to see what it’s like. All I can say is, Utah here I come!

Yellowstone National Park (WY)

I am speechless! I expected to see a few amazing things but I have seen so many that my senses are overwhelmed. All I can say is WOW, WOW, WOW!

I was so excited about finding coffee at 25c (well 26c with tax which was actually pretty good) and the funniest postcard – I had no idea what the day would have to offer.

Our first stop yesterday was Mammoth Hot Springs. I could write a blog post about this hot spring alone. It is one of the most fascinating places I’ve ever seen. The hot springs deposit calcium carbonate in a way that creates step like formations, ranging in colour from white, beige, yellow, orange to pink. The steps / terraces are amazing! Hopefully I captured a bit of their beauty in my photos.

The day was certainly a day for seeing the local wildlife. The first thing we saw were elk alongside the road in Mammoth.

We also saw a lot of bison! The best was one walking along the road. I was on the wrong side of the car (I was travelling with the rest of the family in the car today) but you’ll get a feel for how how close he was to the car.

The best spot of the day was by far seeing two grizzly bears about 200m from us. The first thing we noticed were all the parked cars and a lot of rangers. I’m not surprised about the number of rangers as people were camped out on chairs watching the bears. Personally I thought they were nuts! I want a quick exit route if a grizzly bear decides to come my way. I caught the tail end of the one chasing the other one. At this point I was really sorry I didn’t have a decent camera with me.

The other thing we saw a lot of was waterfalls. There are numerous in Yellowstone National Park. The most stunning stop and waterfall, in my view, was in the ‘Grand Canyon’ of the park. This you cannot miss if you go to the park. It is breathtaking!

There are a lot of motorcycles in the park. I captured this at one of our stops. Again, mostly Harley’s.

What an amazing day! I could not have asked for more.