This weekend was wonderful on so many levels. Not only did I get to enjoy the glorious beauty that is the Scottish Highlands but I was again reminded of the wonderful people that I have in my life and was transported back to amazing places I had the privilege to visit during my USA/Canada trip this time last year.
The Highlands of Scotland are stunning, even with the pesky midges and lack of sunshine. In some ways the dark skies add to the mystery of the dramatic landscape. I also can’t remember the last time I had so much fun on a bike! The isolation and narrow, winding single track roads allowed me the freedom to really ‘play’ on Trinity, testing both her and my capabilities. I think her strengths far outweigh mine but I’m trying to catch up!
As with my Europe trip, my planning for the trip was pretty minimal. I had highlighted some potential routes on a map but did no further planning, outside of borrowing a warmer sleeping bag as I was nervous I may get cold if I ended up having to camp. This turned out to be a great decision since I had to camp the first two nights. There was no availability accommodation.
My lack of planning was partly due to a very heavy work schedule for the two weeks leading up to my trip and partly due to the fact that I have come to enjoy just seeing where the road takes me. The approach has done me well so far.
I flew up to Glasgow on Thursday evening to be greeted by my extended ‘Scottish family’. On my previous trip Silvia had taken care of me but on this trip it was Mary that made sure I was well fed at the start and end of my trip. There is nothing that pleases me more than someone cooking for me, so this brought me enormous joy! On this trip it also added to the amusement.
I had popped around Mary’s for breakfast before hitting the road on Friday. Mary was making me a flask of tea to take along on my trip while I was Skyping my mom. My initial shock was followed by a roar of laughter when I stopped to have my tea next to Loch Lomond only to get a mouthful of milky water. Mary had forgotten to put the teabag in. She made up for it in abundance on Tuesday though when she had dinner and a cup of tea ready for me upon my return to Glasgow. We had a good giggle over the incident as she had realised her omission not long after I had left her house.
Packing for the trip took 20 minutes. Getting over the Erskine bridge took twice as long as I missed the turn off and ended up riding in a huge circle only to end up back at Mary’s house. I had to laugh!
Once I managed to get myself on the right road it was smooth sailing. I spent most of the day riding north along the A82. It was raining when I passed Loch Lomond so I stopped for ‘tea’ just after that when the rain stopped. Well, you know how that ended. It was a short stop.
My next stop was Glencoe. The volcanic mountain pass is located next to Scotland’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. Sadly I couldn’t see it through the cloud that covered it. The ride through the rolling green valley was however quite lovely. At one point the look and feel of the road made me feel like I was on Independence Pass in Colorado again. A photo of the area is provided below.
After a stop in Fort William for lunch I was back on the road and heading for the Isle of Skye. I hadn’t ‘planned’ to visit Skye but my dad told me that he loved it so that changed my course. I’m glad it did.
Skye is gorgeous, as is the drive into it along the A87, which also passes Eilean Donan Castle. The castle looks so majestic in the middle of the lake. It was a stroke of luck that I ended up staying a stones throw away from it on the shore of Lake Alsh (Sound of Sleat) on my second night.
I had looked for accommodation on Skye during one of my stops but there was nothing available. It hadn’t been that long since I crossed the bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh into Skye when I saw a campsite in the most beautiful setting. There was also a pub 200m away. Scenery. Food. Result! I would look no further.
Below is a photo of my view of the mountains on my first night.
My second day was spent exploring Skye. I decided to not look at my map but just head west and see where it look me. When I saw something I liked, generally rugged coastline, I tried to find a road that would lead me closer to it. After a couple of dead ends I ended up at Neist Point. All I will say is WOW!
Below are photos of the coastline at Neist Point and the lighthouse.
Walking from the top of the ridge down to the lighthouse I was quite taken by the landscape and the lucky campers that had made the location their home for the night. It really was quite breathtaking in more than one way. Not only was I blown away by the scenery but I also realised how unfit I’ve become since my US trip. I had to drag myself up a couple of the hills, each time thinking that I wouldn’t make it but each time surprising myself and getting to the top. This seem to set the tone for the day.
On the way back from Neist Point I stopped at a little cafe for lunch and got talking to two resident Skye bikers. They pointed me to the eastern side of Skye where the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock can be found. I think there were a few other things but these were all I had time to visit as the Old Man of Storr required a hike up a mountain. It was bloody exhausting in my full bike gear but so worth the view when I got to the top.
I didn’t post that many pictures on Instagram but there are more photos on my Facebook page. I did however post a photo of the waterfall at Kilt Rock which is below.
It was around 4pm when I got back to Trinity and started my journey off Skye. The mobile/ cell reception on Skye is quite poor so I had to wait until I reached Kyle of Lochalsh to see where I may be able to stay. Again, there was nothing in the area. I decided to just keep riding until I found a campsite which is how I ended up back at Eilean Donan Castle and having the best Steak and Ale pie I have ever eaten. This was in the local pub.
Day three started in the rain. I was slightly worried about where I was going to sleep that night given that my tent was wet. As luck would have it, my days ride along the Wester Ross Coastal Trail would lead me to a Wigwam just off the beach at Blue Sands. It is this coastline up to the Rua Reidh lighthouse at Melvaig that for me is a little bit of Scottish heaven. I will definitely be going back to stay at the lighthouse which has been converted into a B&B.
The day’s ride leading up to my beach sunset was my favourite ride of the weekend. For the first time since returning from North America I found somewhere that I felt truly free. It was stunning, isolated, varied and challenging. I passed a snow covered Beinn Eighe surrounded by wide plains. I raced through narrow single track roads, only stopping to let the occasional car or camper van pass. I followed two cars over the single track pass to Applecross in the rain and fog with minimal visibility and I saw field of yellow and rusty/purple flowers that reminded me so much of Mt Rainier and parts of California.
I can’t remember the last time I was this happy!
Below are a few photos from the day.
My final day started with a walk on the beach. It was overcast but still. It was so peaceful.
I was mindful that I had a long trip back to Glasgow to get a flight home, so I decided to head off early. That plan changes slightly when I dropped Trinity just outside of my wigwam. Oops! What is it with me and dropping her in campsites.
Four good things came from that incident. I learned my panniers can handle Trinity’s weight; that I still can’t pick her up; I got to have breakfast and finally I got to meet two lovely guys that helped pick Trinity up for me.
The trip back to Glasgow was fortunately less eventful. I rode back via Inverness and Lock Ness, stopping at Fort Augustus for coffee and cake. Sadly I didn’t spot the Loch Ness Monster but I did get a photo of its friend (see below). From there I was back on the A82 passing Glencoe, still covered in cloud, and Loch Lomond before reaching Glasgow. What a great weekend! The Highlands I will be back.
Mel & Trinity 